scale colour
There is always debate on what was the exact
colour of a prototype. This is of course important if one is going to
build a large scale museum model but small scale trains will look like
well painted models rather than real if exact colours are used. Firstly,
there is the question of gloss. This is only visible very close up and
models seen from normal viewing angles should always be painted in matt.
In any case, gloss paint will remove much delicate detail.
The lighting under which the model is to be
displayed is also critical. As an example, a colour will look quite
different under say 'daylight' tubes rather than 'bright white'. Recently,
I had to display County Gate at a location where part of the model was
under a large roof light. The bright daylight flooding over our hotel
destroyed the 'feel' of that part of the model.
Colours of a small model seem to be more dark
than the colours of a bigger one. Scale lighting is a percentage of white
colour that should be added to make the exterior of the model more
realistic. (The start colour is the colour of prototype.)
One more nuance should be taken in account (especially for historical
models): Use lower percentage if you wish to get the surface that seems
like just-painted; Use higher percentage if you wish to get some old and
fade surface. The figure below helps to evaluate the scale lighting you
need.
The other way to evaluate scale lighting you need is
using SL calculator. This is free software you can download right now
DOWNLOAD Adding white to all colours
will not achieve a perfect result, however. White in red will produce
pink, for instance: hardly the colour of a UK post-box! So some colours
are better toned down with browns or greys. Models should never be
painted in black or white, by the way. There is no easy formula that
one can apply, and only experimentation under your display lighting
conditions will achieve good results.
We do not paint our Lynton and Barnstaple locos the
'correct' SR Olive Green. Rather we use SR Malachite Green which is
then toned down by lightly spraying on dilute 'dirty grey' with an air
brush. Under our lighting conditions, the locos look about right.
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