model kits come with rivets already etched in. An example
would be the Lynton and Barnstaple Baldwin produced by
Backwoods miniatures. This does mean that the sheet
thickness has been reduced by 50% so it is usual to apply
the sheet to a backing plate for additional strength. The
rivets are also a bit pointed and feel worse than a cat's
tongue. I always very lightly sand them with 400 paper to
smooth them over.
kits leave you to do the work by etching a small half depth
hole at the back of the sheet. One is then expected to use
some tool to push the rivet through. This is not as easy as
it seems and it is only too easy to finish up with different
sized rivets and a buckled sheet. This is where a proper
riveter comes into its own. Sadly, ones that work are also
Metalsmith and costs around £60. In my mind, it is a
jolly good tool for pushing out etched rivet holes, but it
is still a horrible job to punch out dozes of rivets from
scratch. The difficulty is to ensure correct spacing and in
no time at all, you will become cross eyed!
knees comes from G W Models and costs nearly £100. They have
11 Croshaw Close
Tel: 01903 767 231
has verniers, so the plate can be accurately moved thus
ensuring equally spaced rivets in a perfect straight line.
minimise plate distortion and there is a choice of dies so
different sized rivets can be created. A long line of rivets
will still result in distortion.
can also be used on Plasticard, of course.
is to drop on white glue using something like a toothpick.
In craftwork a stylus is used to place dots of paint on, for
example, the eyes of very small dolls. A stylus is basically
a wooden dowel; each end has a 1-inch steel rod that tapers
almost to a needle-point. What distinguishes it from a
double-ended ice pick are the two miniature spheres machined
into each end. When either end is dipped into glue and then
touched to a surface, it leaves a virtually perfect round
glue dot that comes out the same size almost every time. It
can be held like a pencil.
of this method is that the end of the tool can touch the
model surface and still produce a small "rivet." The tool
can also be allowed to touch the surface at an angle, so the
palm of your hand can rest on the model's surface as you
hold the stylus, just as when you hold a pen. This increases
the accuracy of the rivets' placement and greatly decreases
the fatigue factor. You can create thousands of rivets at
one sitting without going crazy!
Adding the rivets to the model's surface should be the last
step before you begin painting. The surface should first be
primed and finish-sanded. Using a very soft-lead pencil and
a flexible straightedge, draw the lines on the aircraft
surface wherever you want to place the rivets. I found that
a clear plastic straightedge designed for use with fabric
was very helpful; it has many lines imprinted on it that run
parallel and perpendicular to its edge. This is a great help
in maintaining the correct alignment of your lines.
my favourite method is to use water slide transfers from
Archer Surface Details. The rivets themselves are made
of resin and are perfectly formed. These are available in a wide
range of sizes and spacings which cover just about any need
of the small scale modeller. These should be applied once
all priming and sanding is completed. I use Revel transfer
softener to get them to really stick down.
an example of a boiler finished with Archer rivets
it needs a bit of practice, but a near perfect job can
result. Remember not to apply water based paint directly
onto these transfers otherwise you will soften them all over