the 'Glenthorne Rose'

The harbour scene has been a challenge as it is all to easy to finish up with the modelling cliché of the cute folkloresque harbour with the inevitable Clyde Puffer. It quickly became clear that the collier would have to be scratch built. There is nothing like it available as a kit, and H0 scale would just not work as the vessel is in the foreground.

I wanted a flush riveted iron hull with straight stem and fantail stern and three islands. Glenthorne Rose is an amalgam of the typical features of this type of vessel built at the end of the nineteenth century. I wanted the plates to be bashed and buckled after a very hard life, and one hold being opened, showing how this is done. The computer generated drawing below shows just what I wish to achieve.

rust bucket 'Glenthorne Rose' (original computer drawing)

the completed model

I checked beam to waterline length to be typical of the period and mugged up a bit on ship building techniques of the period.

The shape of the hull was first cut out of 4mm ply and the second layer also cut. Once satisfied with the shape, in particular the start of the fantail, the bottom layer was prepared for fastening to the baseboard. The ply edges were covered in epoxy resin and once cured, very thin Plasticard sheet was cut into plates and fastened to the hull using plastic weld. a more generous application of plastic weld results in the plates settling down nicely onto their overlaps. Remember to start plating at the stern and work forward.

The plates were then primed and sprayed black and rust worked into the plate joints. They were then 'treated for seaweed' in the same manner as the harbour walls, (little on the bows though). Once glued into place, I used self adhesive book binding tape to make the dam at the front of the harbour water (this is quite rigid and is easy to fit) and poured in the West epoxy resin. At the right moment, a gentle swell was worked into water and there we have it! The baseboard can now be sanded, painted and varnished.

the first two ply layers (a bit warped at this point!) - click on image to enlarge

The base is now plated and attached to the baseboard and a very mild swell added in resin - click on image to enlarge

The main part of the hull was made using two wood lengths for the hull sides and the bow and stern carved in plaster. Carpet tacks were tapped into the ply at each end to ensure that the plaster adhered.

The hull was then covered in thin Plasticard sheet cut to the complete hull shape. This was attached using epoxy glue.

 the main hull is complete and ready for plating - click on image to enlarge

Very thin Plasticard sheet was cut into plates and fastened to the hull using plastic weld. a more generous application of plastic weld results in the plates settling down nicely onto their overlaps. Remember to start plating at the stern and work forward. While the plates are still soft they can be distressed to taste.

The gouged and battered plating and anchor, (carved in plastic) - click on image to enlarge

hull painted - click on image to enlarge

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A lot of trouble was taken to get the hull well and truly bashed.

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I have never seen a model of a freighter where the hold tarps are being opened up, so this was my chance. The rear hold is still fastened down and the front has had the tarp rolled off and the boards are being removed.

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here, someone has started to paint! - click on image to enlarge

The railings are complete and the spars being rigged - click on image to enlarge

Completed ship ready for baseboard. The ship is held in place by 2 screws - click on image to enlarge

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The entire superstructure was made using 1/16" Plasticard. The rivets were punched through very thin Plasticard which was then epoxied onto the base form. If distressing was required, Plastic Weld was used instead! The spars were made with brass tube and wire. Everything was soldered up, including all the railings which were made of wire. The rigging was made from fuse wire. For best results, the main standing rigging should be brought through the hull and tensioned from below; this way, adjustments can be made.
 

I often notice model boats and ships which are incorrectly moored.

The diagram above shows the basic principle of tying up. Because the ship/boat will move with the swell, the lines, after being attached to cleats, pass through fairleads that prevent damage to the ship and line. The spring lines are needed to prevent the ship from moving fore and aft alongside. I notice that these are often omitted.

the 'Rose' alongside showing springers